Route of Lost Kingdoms

The Route of Lost Kingdoms stretches from inside the gates of the Kruger National Park at the ancient stone wall site of Thulamela, follows a trail of myths and legends to the Mapungubwe World Heritage site and onwards to the small town of Alldays. The route gives tourists the opportunity to explore this undiscovered region in the north of South Africa, bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe.

Thulamela is a stone walled site situated in the Far North region of the Kruger Park and dates back approximately 450–500 years. This late Iron Age site forms part of what is called the Zimbabwe culture, which is believed to have started at Mapungubwe.

Thulamela:

Thulamela is a Venda word, meaning 'place of birth'. The site consists of stone ruins of the royal citadel and dates back to between the 15th and 17th centuries. According to oral histories, the Nyai division of the Shona–speaking Lembethu occupied Thulamela and believed that there was a mystical relationship between their leader and the land. They believed that the ancestors of the leader (or Khosi) would intercede on behalf of the nation. The Khosi, who was an elusive figure and could only be visited by certain individuals, lived in a secluded hilltop palace in view of the commoners as an indication of his sacredness.

The Khosi had a number of officials working for him. Some of the most important included:

• The messenger – a close and trusted confidant who kept the chief informed of all court proceedings and visitors;
• Personal diviner and herbalist – safeguarded the Chief’s health and screened visitors;
• Makhadzi (ritual sister) – the chief ruled together with her. Her function was that of national advisor. She had to be kept informed of all decisions taken by the council. She was also instrumental in the appointment of a new chief; and
• Khotsimunene (brother) – legal expert in charge of the public court.

If a commoner wished to meet the Khosi he would go to a special chamber with two entrances - one from the Khosi’s hut which he would use and the other for the visitor. The chamber was divided probably by a central wall separating the visitor from the Khosi and so emphasising the Khosi’s sacredness.

Both Thulamela and Great Zimbabwe were thriving commercial cities. Commercial traders transported their goods on the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers. These waterways connected the Shona with African east coast commercial trading centres, which networked into the markets of India and China. The Shona people built hundreds of cities of stone, crowded with three story apartment complexes, housing tens of thousands of people.

Architecture emphasised curves. The round homes would nestle against the rounded outer walls in a perfect fit. In this manner, not a precious square inch of area would be lost. The walls were built from stones taken from nearby hills. Great rocks were cut using torches and then chiselled into blocks. Building blocks fitted so perfectly that mortar was not needed to hold the walls in place. The Shona used curved walls inside the city to section off living areas.

Great Zimbabwe contained 18000 people. Royalty lived within the city walls, farmers and workers lived outside. A Shona home would be thirty feet across, a two to three story building, with thick walls coloured in red. Homes were packed together so they touched one another. At night, the cooking fires would create smog over the city that could be seen for miles.

One thousand years ago, Mapungubwe was the centre of the largest kingdom in the subcontinent, where a highly sophisticated people traded gold and ivory with China, India and Egypt. The Iron Age site, discovered in 1932 but hidden from public attention until only recently, has been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco). Mapungubwe (meaning ‘hill of the jackal’) first attracted attention in modern times when gold beads, bangles, bowls and figurines were discovered on the summit. Since then Mapungubwe has been excavated. Once again there is evidence of an extensive African farming society, based on cattle keeping with agriculture,. in this case with trade playing an increasingly important role.

Mapungubwe:

Mapungubwe hill is 300m long, broad at one end, tapering at the other. It is only accessible by means of two very steep and narrow paths that twist their way to the summit, and yet 2000 tons of soil had been artificially transported to the very top by a prehistoric people of unknown identity. The hill is surrounded by mystery and legend. Local African legends hold the hill taboo and regard it with so much awe that people turn their backs to it at the mere mention of the name. They believe that those who climb the hill place their lives in jeopardy.

On new year’s eve 1932, ESJ van Graan together with his son, three friends and a young African man, whom they had persuaded with much difficulty to guide them, ventured to the summit of the hill. Here they found the remnants of a lost and once powerful civilisation. The hill was covered in ash and soil deposits among which they found iron tools, pots and copper beads. Heaps of boulders were positioned so that, at a moment’s notice they may be rolled down upon the heads of enemies who dared to climb the cliffs. Where the ground cover had been eroded, were richly adorned graves ... and gold.

Fortunately, Van Graan’s son had studied ethnology at the University of Pretoria and, recognising the academic value of the site, he contacted Professor Leo Fouchè. So began the biggest Iron Age archaeological project ever undertaken by any southern African university, which remains an ongoing project today.

Archaeological enquiry uncovered the remnants of numerous dwellings, which had been built on the ruins of predecessors over many generations, resulting in a series of habitation phases. Radiocarbon dates show that the first buildings were erected below the hill at the beginning of the 11th century AD. But adjacent to Mapungubwe is the sister site of Bambadyanalo, which was settled even earlier. It seems that the political centre of the state shifted from Bambandyanalo to Mapungubwe hill in about AD1045, probably when the town became overcrowded. It was also at about this time that hills and mountains became associated with royalty. Noble classes began to build their structures on high ground.

The van Graan party discovered a gravesite, later named M1, rich with gold ornaments. A large quantity of gold wire adorned the neck and arms of the skeletons. About 130 of these were still in relatively good condition. All in all, the amount of gold from this burial amounted to 7 503 ounces.

Although Mapungubwe has been scientifically investigated since the early 1930's, many of its mysteries lie unanswered. It is believed that Mapungubwe was home to an advanced culture of people. The civilization thrived as a sophisticated trading centre from around 1200-1300AD. It was the centre of the largest kingdom in the sub-continent, where a highly sophisticated people traded gold and ivory with China, India and Egypt. The region had a population of more than 5 000 inhabitants.

Mapungubwe is probably the earliest known site in southern Africa where evidence of a class-based society existed Mapungubwe's leaders were separated from the rest of the inhabitants. Mapungubwe is testimony to the existence of an African civilisation that flourished before colonisation.

The route passes through both these ancient sites giving tourists the opportunity to explore the lifestyles of people living in the region today. Rural life can be hard and people have adapted in many different ways to the arid bushveld environment. Take the time to visit some of the villages and meet the people of this ancient land. You will have the opportunity to see many baobabs that line the roads. You can visit the biggest recorded baobab in the world. It is believed to be approximately 3 000 years old. To get to the tree, take the most direct road to Sagole Spa and then drive west along the road that goes through Sagole Spa until you see a signboard reading ‘Big Tree’ to the right. If you get lost, just ask for directions.

The Baobab Tree:

Baobabs are deciduous trees and in height from 5 to 20m. The baobab tree (also referred to as the 'upside down tree' because its branches look a bit like roots) is a strange-looking tree that grows in low-lying areas in Africa and Australia. It can grow to enormous sizes and carbon dating indicates that they may live to be 3000 years old.

Baobabs are very difficult to kill. They can be burnt, or stripped of their bark, and will just form new bark and carry on growing. When they do die, they simply rot from the inside and suddenly collapse, leaving a heap of fibres, which makes many people think that they don't die at all, but simply disappear.

An old baobab tree can create its own ecosystem that supports the life of countless creatures, from the largest of mammals to the thousands of tiny creatures scurrying in and out of its crevices. Birds nest in its branches; baboons devour the fruit; bush babies and fruit bats drink the nectar and pollinate the flowers, and elephants have been known to chop down and consume a whole tree.

A baby baobab tree looks very different from its adult form.  This is why the Bushmen believe that it doesn't grow like other trees, but suddenly crashes to the ground with a thump, fully grown, and then one day simply disappears. No wonder they are thought of as magical trees.

The baobab tree has large whitish flowers that open at night. The fruit, which grows up to a foot long, contains tartaric acid and vitamin C and can either be sucked, or soaked in water to make a refreshing drink.

The fruit can also be roasted and ground up to make a coffee-like drink. The fruit is not the only part of the baobab that can be used. The bark is pounded to make rope, mats, baskets, paper and cloth; the leaves can be boiled and eaten, and glue can be made from the pollen.

Fresh baobab leaves provide an edible vegetable similar to spinach, which is also used medicinally to treat kidney and bladder disease, asthma, insect bites, and several other maladies. The tasty and nutritious fruits and seeds of several species are sought after, while pollen from the African and Australian baobabs is mixed with water to make glue.

Along the Zambezi, people believe that when the world was young the baobabs were upright and proud. However for some unknown reason, they lorded over the lesser growths. The gods became angry and uprooted the baobabs, thrusting them back into the ground, root upwards. Evil spirits now haunt the sweet white flowers and anyone who picks one will be killed by a lion.

One gigantic baobab in Zambia is said to be haunted by a ghostly python. Before the white man came, a large python lived in the hollow trunk and was worshipped by the local people. When they prayed for rain, fine crops and good hunting, the python answered their prayers. The first white hunter shot the python and this had disastrous consequences. On still nights local people claim to hear a continuous hissing sound from the old tree.

In addition to the people, there are opportunities for good game viewing at the Kruger National Park, the Mapungubwe National Park and many of the private game reserves in the area. The Venetia Wild Dog Project is also located on the route. Here tourists are given the opportunity to radio-track the Venetia wild dogs with the researchers on the project. The African wild dog, also known as the Cape hunting dog, is Africa's most endangered carnivore.

The African wild dog:

The African wild dog is a gregarious, pack-living animal with behaviour similar to that of the well-known wolf of the northern hemisphere. The wild dog has a similar role in nature to that of the wolf in that it removes weak and unhealthy animals from the prey population. Like the wolf, the wild dog has been persecuted relentlessly.

The African wild dog is a slim, long-legged animal about the size of an Alsatian dog. Its coat is a dappled combination of tan, black and white, each individual having a unique pattern. They differ from true dogs and wolves in that they have only four, not five, toes on each foot. Their large rounded ears are characteristic and contribute to an acute sense of hearing.

Wild dogs live in closely-knit packs of up to fifteen adults together with their young. Each pack has one dominant female and one dominant male. Usually only these two will mate and produce offspring. All pack members cooperate in the rearing of pups.

A high-pitched twittering, associated with excitement, is often heard when the pack is at a carcass or when they greet each other on returning from a hunt or awakening after a doze in the shade. A hooting call, called the ’whoo' call, allows the members of the pack to find one another when the pack breaks up.

Often regarded as merciless and cruel killers, wild dogs are in fact among the most efficient of Africa's large predators. Their bad reputation is unjustified and probably the result of their kills being more frequently observed by people, as the dogs hunt mostly by day unlike many other predators. Wild dogs hunt as a pack. They quickly single out a weak or injured animal within a herd, and the animal is then pursued until it can run no further.

Wild dogs are tireless runners and chases may cover several kilometres. Contrary to popular belief, the dogs do not take turns to wear down prey. The mottled hunters quickly kill and consume their prey Impala, grey duiker, steenbok, and the young of the larger antelopes are popular items on their menu.

Wild dogs favour savanna woodland with reasonable rainfall. They occur patchily south of the Sahara, where they are now rarely found outside the borders of wildlife sanctuaries. In southern Africa, wild dogs are confined to large game reserves, such as the Kruger, Hwange, Gonarezhou, Moremi, and Chobe parks as well as the smaller Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park. Free-roaming packs still occur in the Bushmanland region of Namibia, while their status in Mozambique is unknown.

Why Endangered?

African wild dogs are great roamers and frequently come into contact with farmers and their livestock. Since they prey on small stock they are often shot or poisoned by farmers. Until the 1960s even game rangers eliminated the dogs wherever they could: they were blamed for creating havoc amongst antelope herds, which were then regarded as the priorities of wildlife preservation.

Recent research into these interesting creatures has revealed their fascinating social habits and beneficial role in weeding weak animals out of antelope populations. Reserves now prize any packs living within their boundaries, these being the only places where wild dogs will survive. Packs often leave the boundaries of protected areas and are then at great risk from stock farmers. Although they breed well in captivity and are thus available for reintroduction, there are few suitable areas to which wild dogs can be returned.

What can you do?

• Be sure to report sightings of wild dogs in the visitors’ books of national parks and game reserves. Game rangers would be particularly interested to hear of any pups or dens that you may have see;
• People interested in donating money to support African wild dog research should contact the Endangered Wildlife Trust, Private Bag X11, Parkview, 2122. Tel. +27 11-4861102.

Also see http://www.limpopo.co.za/hosted/wilddog/info.htm for more information and photos.

From Mapungubwe you can head to Pontdrift, where a crocodile farm can be visited before proceeding to the small town of Alldays, a traditional hunting hotspot.

The route is ideally located as a starting point to explore the countries of Zimbabwe and Botswana. The Beitbridge border post to Zimbabwe operates 24 hours a day and can be contacted at:

Beitbridge - Tel: +27 15 530 0070; Fax: +27 15 530 0070

The Pontdrift border post into Botswana is open daily from 08h00 to 16h00 and can be contacted at:

Pontdrift – Tel: +27 15 575 1561; Fax: +27 15 575 1047
 
Please be warned that the route falls within a malaria area and it is advisable to take the necessary precautions.

Useful Links

http://www.krugerpark.co.za

http://www.limpopotourism.org.za

http://www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe/

http://www.mapungubwe.com

http://www.golimpopo.com

http://www.vhembe.gov.za

Suggested Reading List

Huffman T.N. 2005. Mapungubwe. Johannesburg: Wits University Press. ISBN: 1868144089

Tiley, S. 2005. Mapungubwe: South Africa's Crown Jewels. Johannesburg: Sunbird. ISBN: 1919938052

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