The Southermost Route is set in the south Western Cape region of South Africa and as the name suggests, the key feature of this route is South Africa’s national bird.

The blue crane's arrival in the area in recent years has galvanised local farmers to form a unique alliance with the aim to save these graceful creatures from extinction. The route therefore, makes conservation of the Blue Crane species its primary focus.

There are fifteen species of cranes throughout the world, three of which are found in South Africa: the Blue Crane, the Grey-Crowned Crane and the Wattled Crane.

The Blue Crane is displayed on South Africa’s five-cent coin and the bird has been part of the country’s heritage for decades. The long Blue Crane feathers are traditionally reserved for the headdress of tribal kings.

The birds are omnivorous and prefer plants, grains and insects in their diets. It makes the wheat and barley lands of this region ideally suited for the Blue Crane. But even here the birds remain under threat. Collisions with power lines and fences, misuse of agro-chemicals, being caught in baling twine, chicks drowning in water troughs and the theft of chicks for the pet trade are concerns their protectors are constantly faced with.

Apart from the cranes as central focus, the area is geographically striking, as it is situated at the very tip of the African continent where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. The area boasts the unique floral wonders of the Cape floral kingdom and historical sites of note include the Khoi-Khoi Caves and old fishing villages that have survived to this day.

There are many shipwrecks that litter the coast and whale watching in season (September-November) always draws the crowds. The rocky coastline offers anglers and divers unending pleasure and the seas and rivers are favourites with fishing and boating enthusiasts.

Heading away from the coast, the agricultural pursuits of the Overberg farms are worth a look in as are the nature reserves of this region. Two of the major projects here are the conservation efforts to save the Cape Griffin Vulture and efforts to revive the Cape Quagga.

Floral wonders:

The Overberg is home to a wide variety of wild flowers or fynbos, a unique feature of the Cape floral kingdom. It is the smallest of the six plant regions of the world, but it boasts the largest variety of plants - a staggering 9 000 species. Six thousand of these are found nowhere else in the world. Unique to the area covered by the route is the Bredasdorp Lily (Cyrtanthus guthrieae). This striking fire lily is a bulbous plant growing up to 12cm in height with one or two bright red flowers. It is endemic to the hills west of Bredasdorp and only flower after a fire, usually in March and April. The lily occurs mainly on the lower sandstone slopes and has been listed as a Red Data species.

Historical notes:

This route traverses a region well-known for its contribution to the South African wool trade. A local farmer, Michiel van Breda, saw the potential of raising Merino sheep on his farm Zoetendalsvallei and that kick-started the now established local wool trade. The farm was named after the ship Zoetendaal, which was shipwrecked along the Cape Agulhas coast. Bredasdorp itself is named after Michiel van Breda.

The Overberg coastline is renowned for shipwrecks, and streets and businesses in Cape Agulhas bear the names of some ill-fated ships. These include Die Schonberg, St Mungo, Die Brederode, Mossa Senhora dos Milagros, Crentoo, Juno, Die Martha, Micobar and The Arniston.

Town info - Cape Agulhas region:

Arniston town:

Arniston is a village where time has stood still; where the practices of generations of fishermen quietly continue without interruption. But this sleepy little coastal town has seen its fair share of drama.

The name Arniston comes from the British transport/hospital ship that sank near the coast in 1815, with a loss of 372 lives. Only six passengers survived the ordeal and a monument was erected on the beach in 1817 to commemorate the loss. A replica of this can be seen today above the beach in front of the hotel.

Today, however, Arniston is a favourite hideaway for holidaymakers. You will not find a pumping nightlife and adrenalin-packed attractions here, only an azure sea, cobalt sky, peace and quiet. Activities in Arniston include angling, swimming, hiking, whale watching, and seeing the loaded fishing boats come in to Arniston Bay.

Whilst here, you must take a trip to Kassiesbaai, a 200-year-old fishing village which is a national heritage site in its entirety. Characterised by unassuming white thatch cottages, this is where one can experience the customs of the locals, as many who live here still make a living from the sea. There are some lovely little coffee and craft shops to visit in the village, the sea is safe for swimming (and relatively warm), and the sand dunes around the town are great to explore.

Arniston is also known as Waenhuiskrans because of the magnificent limestone cave, across the dunes to the west of Roman Beach. This cave, according to a local theory, is so big that a wagon with a full span of oxen can turn around in it. Waenhuiskrans means 'wagon house' cliff in Afrikaans and it can only be accessed at low tide.

Time Magazine lists Arniston/Waenhuiskrans as one of the 10 most popular tourist destinations in the world.

Bredasdorp:

Bredasdorp, known as South Africa's first dorp, was established in 1838 on the farm Langefontein and named after a local farmer, Michiel van Breda. Van Breda was the first mayor of Cape Town and also regarded by many as the father of the merino sheep industry in this country. A rivalry between van Breda and his neighbour, PV van der Byl, led to the establishment of two separate churches on their farms and eventually two separate towns, Bredasdorp and Napier. Today, Bredasdorp is the economic hub of the dairy, wool and wheat farming Cape Agulhas region.

De Hoop Nature reserve, the flagship of Cape Nature Conservation is nearby, covering 60 000 hectares of endangered fynbos. This reserve is home to South Africa's largest population of Bontebok and also the endangered Mountain Zebra. There are various hiking and mountain biking trails on the reserve and whales can be seen from June to November at Koppie Alleen and Infanta.

Whilst in the town, it would be recommended to take a look through the fascinating Shipwreck Museum which is filled with artefacts remaining from the many ships which have sunk along the treacherous coast of Agulhas, as well as the Audrey Blignaut Room which pays homage to the famous Bredasdorp born essayist.

The Dutch Reformed Church is an impressive example of Cape-Gothic architecture. The nearby Rhenosterfontein farm has an ancient Milkwood tree that is a National Monument and near the farm Nacht Wacht, on the way to Arniston, is the first protective fence ever erected to help save the Bontebok from extinction (1837).

At the foot of the Bredasdorp mountains lies the Heuningberg Nature Reserve where the rare red Bredasdorp lily can be found, and also close to Bredasdorp, De Mond Nature Reserve offers superb angling and a number of wonderful hiking trails.

In October each year the Foot of Africa Marathon is held, when athletes take the demanding route over the mountains from Bredasdorp to Napier. The Overberg Air Show is held every two years, and stock car races happen at least once a month - something to get your adrenalin pumping in this otherwise laid back town.

Elim:

The quaint little village of Elim, found half way between Gansbaai and Bredasdorp is the oldest village in the Strandveld. Founded by Moravian missionaries in 1824 and largely inhabited by members of the Moravian Church, it’s short and sweet biblical name is from Exodus 15:27: The Israelites, after crossing the Red Sea “came to Elim, where there were twelve wells of water, and threescore and ten palm trees: and they camped there by the waters.”

On entering Elim, the historical charm of the town will be immediately evident with whitewashed cottages, fruit trees and fynbos welcoming you. Most of the buildings date back to the 19th Century, but inter-dispersed with the traditional thatched cottages, one can now see brightly painted buildings with corrugated steel roofs.

If you are passing through on a Sunday, attending the local Church (to which all roads in the village lead) is a must – services start at 10:00 and the Elim Brass Band plays here as well as at selected festivals. The church has a clock that dates back some 240 years and still keeps good time. It was acquired for Elim in 1914 but has been working since 1764 when it was built in Germany for a church in Herrenhut.

As you are walking through these streets, be sure to take a look around the local museum where you can get a further taste of the town's history. A memorial thanking God for the emancipation of slaves in 1838 stands near the church and the village's restored corn mill was built in 1828. The mill has the largest wooden wheel in the country and visitors can enjoy tea, coffee or lunch here.

The Moravian community consists of farmers, farm workers and artisans. The Elim thatchers are particularly renowned for their craftsmanship and the area is becoming renowned for the cultivation of vineyards and the export of fynbos (Elim’s fynbos is the rarest in the world). The entire village of Elim has been declared a National Heritage Site.

L'Agulhus:

L'Agulhas is the southern most town in Africa, where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans officially meet. Early Portuguese seafarers rounding this dangerous point called it L'Agulhas, which means Cape of Needles (referring to the jagged rocks of the coastline and also the fact that a compass shows no real deviation between true north and magnetic north at this spot). L'Agulhas gets its rich heritage from the shipwreck survivors of many nationalities who settled in this desolate place.

The windswept, ruggedly beautiful coastal plain also lays claim to the Agulhas National Park, which has more than 8500 species of flowering plants and the coastline supports a rich marine and intertidal life, with breeding sites of rare birds such as the African black oystercatcher.

The country's second oldest working lighthouse was built here in 1848 in the Pharaoh style. You can browse the fascinating lighthouse museum and curio shop, or stop for a cup of tea. The koppie behind the lighthouse provides a panoramic view of where the two oceans meet, ships pass and Southern Right whales play in spring and early summer. The actual Southernmost Tip of Africa is 1 km west of the lighthouse and is marked by a simple cairn.

East of the tip are vywers (fish traps) which were created by inhabitants of the area thousands of years ago. These traps were made by building dams across shallow gullies so that fish would be stranded in them at low tide. Some vywers have been maintained through the centuries and are still used today. The discovery of stone hearths and pottery, together with shell middens, are a valuable historic and cultural legacy left by the Khoikhoi beach nomads, who lived along this coastline for centuries.

The water here is very shallow and L'Agulhas is known to be one of the best fishing grounds in South Africa. L'Agulhas has several hiking trails, and there are also tidal pools and rock pools for swimming.

The small village of Suiderstrand is located just to the west of the southernmost tip, on the Atlantic Ocean side. Completely surrounded by the Agulhas National Park and the ocean, this village is a nature lover’s paradise. Coastal walks and hikes through the National Park will reward the visitor with stunning views, pristine beaches, pebble bays, rock pools, and a marine lagoon.

Napier:

Napier sits at the bottom of the Soetmuisberg and is surrounded by rolling wheat and barley fields. Established in 1838 this beautiful little town still contains much of its old world charm, and is fast gaining a reputation as an artist's community, playing host to numerous cultural events.

Winter-time is when this charming village is in its full glory, with the surrounding fields illuminated in hues of green and yellow. With this natural beauty and proximity to Cape Town, it is no wonder that so many city dwellers have made this town their chosen getaway destination. Many of the old houses have been bought by ‘weekenders’ and lovingly restored to their former grace.

Named after the governor of the Cape at the time, Sir George Napier, Napier's main craftsmen were historically blacksmiths. The Dutch Reformed Church has rather unusual architecture, built in the form of a Greek cross with teak interior and a beautiful pipe organ. One of the first buildings in Napier, the Feeshuis, was restored in 1988 to celebrate the town's 150th anniversary. It was used as slave quarters between 1810 and 1920. Other interesting historical structures are the Ox Wagon monument, erected in 1988 commemorating the Ossewa Trek of 1838, and the giant sundial at the municipal offices.

With its narrow streets and quaint architecture, Napier is a town full of charm. Along the main road you will find many restaurants, galleries and a host of interesting collector’s shops including the Toy Museum. Other activities include horse riding, hiking (Grootberg Trail) and tractor rides, and rare species of fynbos as well as flocks of the South African national bird, the blue crane, can be seen in the area.

Annual events include the much loved Patatfees (Sweet Potato Festival) in June, the Spring Pony Show in September, The Voet Van Afrika Marathon in October as well as the new Napier Caberet Festival.

Struisbaai:

Struisbaai is a pristine fishing village situated a short drive from the southern most tip of Africa. Boasting the longest continuous beach in the Southern hemisphere, 14km of white sand extends from Struisbaai to Arniston, providing safe bathing, boating and angling. The beach here is exquisite, with an almost subtropical feel. The water is crystal clear and it’s brilliant colour is exaggerated by the colourful fishing boats, which reside in the harbour.

The charming little harbour, originally built in 1959 but enlarged in 1990, serves both local fishing boats known as ‘chukkies’ as well as ski boats for the flock of visitors to the town during the holiday season. On most days it is easy to launch a kayak, small boat or rubber dingy off the beach, and board and kite sailing are particularly good here.

The historical white washed fisherman's cottages at Hotagterklip and the tiny thatch roof Anglican church are all national monuments which have been restored, and worth a visit. Other activities include whale watching, horse riding on the beach, charter fishing trips and visiting the many curio shops and galleries in the area.

Struisbaai is believed to have gotten its name from one of three sources. Straw bay - because of the thatched roofs of the fisherman's cottages. Struisvogel meaning ostrich or named after an old Dutch word meaning 'huge' - in reference to the size of the beach.

What to see and do:

Nature reserves and National parks:

Agulhas National Park: (Tel: +27 28 435 6078)

Situated in the Agulhas Plains at the southernmost tip of the African continent, where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans officially meet, the park offers the visitor some great hiking and driving trails. The coastline is dotted with shipwrecks, and the birdlife is exceptional, with a choice of fynbos, wetland and coastal birds. Visit the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, which houses the only lighthouse museum in Africa.

De Hoop Nature and Marine Reserve: (Tel: +27 28 425 5020)

With seven different eco-systems, this is where you will find an abundance of wildlife, fynbos and birdlife. You will also find the largest concentration of Southern Right whales along the South African coast from July to November each year. Take a picnic basket for lunch at Koppie Alleen, one of the best land-based whale watching sites in the world. Whilst that side of the world, cross the Breede River by hand-drawn pont at Malgas and visit the small towns of Witsand and Infanta on either side of the river mouth.

De Mond Nature Reserve: (Tel: +27 28 424 2170)

Spend a day picnicking at the mouth of the Heuningnes River. This spectacular estuary is the home to rare bird species including Damara Tern, Giant Tern and Black Oystercatcher as well as some unique fynbos. Kids will love the tortoises and splashing in the shallow warm water, while angling permits are available for some great fishing.

Heuningberg Nature Reserve: (Tel: +27 28 424 2584)

Overlooking Bredasdorp, this reserve is a sanctuary for large varieties of Erica and Protea species. It is also the home of the beautiful and rare red Bredasdorp lily, which blooms in April and May. Scenic hiking trails from 2-15km, with great views.

Geelkop Nature Reserve: (Tel: +27 28 482 1806)

This reserve, meaning ‘yellow hill’ derives it’s name from the mass of yellow flowering plants (mainly Leucadendrons), which cover the hill during spring. Approximately 450 hectares in size, activities include a half day hiking trail and a circular drive with superb views.

Heritage sites:

Elim: (Tel: +27 28 482 1806)

Go to Elim for tea. Take a stroll round the old Moravian Church and the Geelkop Nature Reserve. Visit the local tourism bureau and take a guided tour of this fascinating, culturally and historically rich National Heritage site. Return via Wolvengat and several superb wineries. Note the stunning fynbos along the side of the road.

Kassiesbaai: (Tel: +27 28 445 9720)

Explore the quaint fishing village of Kassiesbaai, at Arniston, and get an idea of how life was for fishermen. The entire village has been declared a National Monument, so every building is protected by law. Whilst there, visit the Waenhuiskrans cave, which is only accessible at low tide.

Hiking trails:

All of the nature reserves and most of the guest farms in the area offer hiking and mountain bike trails.

Spookdraai: (Tel: +27 28 435 7185)

The entrance to L’Agulhas is guarded by Spookdraai (Ghost’s corner). Legend has it that many years ago a ship floundered in the bay and the only survivor, a beautiful young woman with exquisite slender hands washed up on shore. She made her way to a cave in the mountains and later died there. Her spirit is not at rest, since with her warm and friendly personality, she still visits nearby guesthouses from time to time. More gruesome, is the story of a man decapitated in an accident, whose headless corpse has also been seen wandering around the Spookdraai area. The hiking trail, which is well signposted from the entrance to L’Agulhas, can be completed in under two hours.

Grootberg: (Tel: +27 28 423 3049)

This trail around the summit of the Grootberg, southeast of Napier, offers the hiker a unique opportunity to see a large variety of fynbos species and birds along a clearly marked route. There a re spectacular views of the flat Agulhas Plain with it’s fascinating wetland system to the south and the rolling hills of the Ruggens to the north.

(Distance 8km; duration 3 hours; trail starts at the FM tower).

De Hoop Whale Trail: (Tel: +27 28 425 5020)

The ultimate hiking experience, the 5-day Whale Trail meanders through the breathtaking De Hoop Nature Reserve, where the fragrance of the fynbos intermingles with salty sea air. Fall asleep to the unforgettable sound of whales in the waters below. The 54km trail is renowned for it’s diverse fynbos vegetation, magnificent dunes and whale-watching opportunities.

Please Note:  Reservations are essential.

Museums:

Cape Agulhas Lighthouse: (Tel: +27 28 435 6078)

This museum, opened in 1994, is the only one of its kind in Africa. It offers a graphic account of the development of lighthouses through the ages and visitors can view photographs of all 56 South African lighthouses, together with a map showing the exact position of each one. The history of the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse is dealt with in detail, including the design of the building, the centenary in 1949, its restoration in the 1980s and the re-opening in 1988. The 150th anniversary of the Lighthouse, celebrated on 1 March 1999, coincided with the launch of the Agulhas National Park. The top of the Lighthouse tower, reached by climbing 71 steps, offers a panoramic view of the sea, the southernmost tip of Africa and the meeting place of the two oceans.

Business hours:  Mon-Sun 09:00-16:30

 Shipwreck Museum: (Tel: +27 28 424 1240)

This fascinating and historic museum is a must see for all visitors to the area. Founded in 1975, it specialises in shipwrecks along the South African coastline, and contains some incredible showpieces specific to the Overberg region.

There are three sections:

The Independent Church, now converted into the Shipwreck Museum, which houses cannons, figureheads, chinaware, coins, bells, buoys and other objects salvaged from wrecks along our coast;

The old Parsonage, a typical Strandveldhuis (Overberg Home) furnished with articles collected from coastal houses and other trivia salvaged from various wrecks; and

The Audrey Blignaut Room is also housed here, which pays homage to this Bredasdorp writer. Don’t miss the Old Coach House, across the garden, which exhibits old carts, two horse drawn hearses and a splendid old fire engine. Independent Street, Bredasdorp.

Business hours:  Mon–Fri 09:00 – 16:45; Sat-Sun 11:00 – 15:45).

Rose Boats and Toy Museum: (Tel: +27 28 423 3894)

A delightful experience for kids and parents alike, the toy museum is home to a wonderful collection of old toys and trains. Don’t miss the unique hand-crafted tin plate steamboat demonstration. These boats are beautifully made in the old tradition, driven by the powerful copper and brass Rose Boats cyclic flush steam (pop-pop) engine. Sarel Cilliers Street, Napier.

Business hours:  Mon – Sun 09:30 – 17:30).

Useful Links

http://www.africandream.org
http://www.capeoverberg.org

Comments and Reviews

Add a comment

See all comments about this route