North-Western Route
Attractions:
The north-western section of the Elephant Coast is a land full of history. This section stretches from the town of Mkuze and the Mkuze Game Reserve northwards alongside the Swaziland border to the Thembe Elephant Park and Ndumu Game Reserve in the north.
Mkuze Game Reserve – here one can explore 100km of tourist roads that transverse this flat reserve with its sandy red ridges and an astonishing variety of natural habitats. Pay a visit to a large rare sand forest and the iNhlonhlela and iNsumo pans. The reserve is well known for its diversity of birds.
Where the Mkuze River passes through the Lebombo Mountains, the stony peak of uTshaneni (Ghost Mountain) stands 529m above sea level. It has a turbulent history – a burial tomb high on the peak and a battleground on the slopes. Tours up the mountain with trained guides are available.
On the border of Pongola Nature Reserve, Lake Jozini offers boat game-viewing and is a prime tiger fishing destination.
High upon the Lebombo Mountain Range with spectacular views overlooking a 500m drop into Swaziland, the first known inhabitants of the Elephant Coast took residence in the Border Caves some 200 000 years ago. These caves are an archaeological gem as they are one of the few places in the world with a continuous stratigraphic record which provides some of the oldest evidence of human evolution in Africa. An interpretive centre shares the story of prehistoric life at the site, and guides are available to take visitors to the cave.
Ubombo – is an isolated little post perched on a summit on the Lebombo Mountains with wide panoramic views east, west and south. Connected to the outside world by two passes, it was established in 1890, when the British annexed the tribal areas of the Nyawo and Mngomezulu people who lived on the plateau summit of the Lebombo Mountains.
Dingane’s grave – located near the Hlatikhulu Forest is the resting place of King Dingane, successor to the famous Zulu leader, King Shaka. Dingane was forced into excel by his half brother, Mpande, from his royal Kraal near Ulundi.
Ndumu Game Reserve is well known for an abundance of birdlife (the highest count in South Africa at some 430 species), including many East African species at the southern tip of their range. Entomologists (and children) will delight in the array of insect life.
Tembe Elephant Park is remotely positioned on the Mozambique border and home to the last remaining original resident elephants from this area. Sand forests, pans and wetlands form this northern Thongaland Reserve. The Gowanini view tower and the Mahlasela and Pongeni hides provide visitors with some great game and bird-viewing opportunities. The terrain is suitable for 4X4s.
History: North Western Tales
With spectacular views overlooking a 500m drop into Swaziland, the fist known inhabitants of the Elephant Coast took residence in the Border Caves some 200 000 years ago.
Some of the oldest evidence that sets human evolution in Africa apart from Europe has been found at the caves where anatomically-modern Homo sapiens remains were discovered. In 1942 an infant was found buried with a shell ornament, and a red stain suggested that the body had been painted. These factors point to a people capable of abstract and symbolic thought, who probably communicated with a fairly complex language. From the animal bones found at the cave it is assumed that they lived on bush pig, warthog, zebra and buffalo – over a million stone artefacts have been excavated.
There is an interpretative centre which tells the story of prehistoric life at the cave and guides are available to take visitors to the cave.
Where the Mkhuze River passes through the Lebombo Mountains a stony peak stands 529m high. The Zulus call it Tshaneni (the place of the small stone). It is legendary for its strange lights, flickering fires and weird noises, and so white settlers refer to it as ‘Ghost Mountain’.
High on its slopes is a tomb where the descendents of the Shangaan Gasa family were buried. Soshangane fled from Shaka in 1819 to Mozambique and later, when the heads of the family died, they were transported back 1 000km, mummified and wrapped in black bull skins to this resting place.
Decades later, after the Anglo-Zulu war in 1879, in a chaotic climate of rivalry, feuding and fighting, two principal contenders – Dinizulu (son of the Zulu King Cetshwayo) and Zibebhu (head of the powerful Mandlakazi root of the Zulu nation) fought for power.
After a series of bloody fights, Zibebhu had the upper hand – and Dinuzulu in desperation enlisted the support of 800 frontiersmen who were on their own search for their “promised land”. In the gorge beneath Ghost Mountain, they engaged in a vicious struggle known as the Battle of Ghost Mountain. Zibebhu and his men were forced to flee from heavy rifle fire and thousands of Zulu warriors were killed and left littering the landscape, contributing to the haunted history of Ghost Mountain.
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