Inyathi Buffalo Route

The Eastern Cape has played an important role in South African history. It was here, in the latter half of the 18th century, where black and white met for the first time. For many years this region was the contact zone between these two groups. The consequences of this delicate and somewhat unstable relationship made a lasting impression on the history of modern South Africa. Today, almost 200 years later, the Buffalo City community reflects this turbulent past in the kaleidoscope of its rich cultural heritage and proud history.

A Further History of Buffalo City:

Long before the ensuing black-white contact of the 18th century, man had already left his mark in this area. The discovery of the Nahoon footprints in 1964 dates human presence in the area to about 200 000 years ago, making Buffalo City the site of the world's oldest fossilized human footprints. Though very little is known about this archaic anatomically modern man, he is described as robust and strong, typical of the time zone when early man evolved into modern man.

More archaeological findings in the form of shell middens and cave shelters decorated with rock art are scattered along the coast and in the mountain ranges. This confirms the presence of a much later and familiar version of mankind, namely the Khoisan. Khoisan is a collective term used to describe both the San (Bushmen) and the Khoikhoi (Hottentots). It suggests that the Khoikhoi in origin were hunter-gatherers (San) who inhabited northern Botswana, then, due to economic change, transformed into the pastoral Khoikhoi (herders), who subsequently immigrated southwards. By 1600 they were distributed widely across South Africa with numerous societies inhabiting the Eastern Cape's river valleys.

Shipwreck survivors first came across Bantu-speaking people in 1554 along the east coast at Port St Johns. Historical documents further prove this presence south of the Umtata River long before the end of the 16th century. Originating from East Africa in about AD1200, Bantu-speaking tribes moved down into south-western Southern Africa and eventually settled in what is today known as KwaZulu-Natal and Eastern Cape. These immigrants were the ancestors of present day Nguni, Sotho and Tsonga. By the late 18th century these major groupings had themselves become differentiated culturally. The southernmost groups settled in the area south of the Umzimvubu River and are commonly known as the Xhosa. Before the appearance of white farmers on the frontier, the Khoisan and Xhosa co-existed peacefully, insofar that intermarriage took place. One Khoikhoi tribe, the Gonaqua, became absorbed by the Xhosa-speakers as the Gqunukwebe.

The 19th century saw the establishment of Cape Colonial society and the emergence of the trekboer as the Cape's first white frontiersman. Forced by economic factors and the stringent colonial legislation, the trekboers proceeded inland in search of available grazing and freedom. The Cape Government, fearing for the safety of the trekboers, proclaimed the Fish River as the new eastern border of the Cape Colony in 1778.

The Fish River was the first border between white and black, introducing a century of intensive conflict. Nine wars (frontier wars) were fought between 1778 and 1878. Each war revolved around the issue of land possession. The wars demanded the constant import of soldiers to the frontier and provision to sustain them. Military defence posts, forts and headquarters were established all over the region. King William's Town was established as the military headquarters of the CMR in 1874, and East London (now Buffalo City) became the disembarkation point of cargo for the forces stationed in the interior. Relics from this period, such as forts, graves and battle sites, are scattered all over Buffalo City territory. These include the Military Reserve in King William's Town and Fort Glamorgan on East London's West Bank.

In an attempt to lower the tension on the eastern frontier, Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape Colony, introduced a scheme where large numbers of Europeans would be settled in the territory between the Kei and Keiskamma Rivers (known as British Kaffraria). He thought that this would not only strengthen the defence of the Colony, but also expose blacks to European standards of education and medical treatment. In King William's Town, Grey Hospital, built in 1857, became the first hospital to train black nurses. His immigration scheme materialised in the form of the 1857-59 German Settler import into British Kaffraria. In total, about 3 000 immigrants settled in the region. They were mainly agriculturalists, though many became prominent traders and later businessmen contributing to the commercial development of the region. Today their monuments and the numerous towns in the region (Berlin, Frankfort, Braunschweig, Breidbach and Stutterheim) bear witness to their pioneering achievements.

During this period, a catastrophic episode in South African history, namely the Xhosa Cattle Killing, took place. It all started in 1856 when the young niece of chief councillor Mhalakaza, Nongqawuse, experienced a vision while fetching water. The vision entailed the sacrifice of all cattle and grain, and refraining from sowing. If the Xhosa did this, the vision claimed, their ancestors would rise from the dead and the Whites, Mfengu and unbelievers would be swept into the sea. In the midst of the European onslaught on Xhosa territory and identity, the Xhosa Cattle Killing of 1857 appeared as salvation for the Xhosa nation. But, as time passed, the country starved, thousands died and no resurrection took place. The Xhosa nation, broken and destitute, was dispersed over the Colony looking for food and employment. It would take the Xhosa many years to regain its former pride, but by then white governance had claimed almost all available land.

The roots of black consciousness in South Africa are found in the Eastern Cape. By the 1880s various discriminatory laws had been proclaimed, restricting the activities and lifestyle of non-whites. In 1878 the East London Town Council banned all blacks from town between sunset and sunrise. This was followed by more discriminatory laws. Without voting rights, black protest gave birth to black consciousness and like-minded organisations. The first of these, Imbumba Eliso Lomzi Yabantsundu (Union of Native Vigilance Association), was established in King William's Town in 1887. In East London Rev Walter Rubusana, educated at Lovedale College, took the lead in protest. The first black-owned newspapers date from this era. John Tengu Jabavu, educated at Healdtown, was the owner-editor of Imvo Zabantsundu. And in East London, one of the first black-managed newspapers, Izwi Labantu, became the mouthpiece of black consciousness.
 
The 20th century introduced economic and political trends that were to affect Africans for the rest of the century. In light of their continued political exclusion, and the proclamation of the Land Act in 1913, Africans became more active in their protests. The South African Native National Congress (SANNC) was established in 1912, and became the African National Congress (ANC) in 1923. The most significant non-Black organisation of the early 20th century was the Industrial and Commercial Workers Union (ICU) established in Cape Town in 1919 among the Cape dockworkers. The founder, Clemens Kadalie, is buried in the Cambridge Cemetery, East London.

In 1948 the Nationalist Party came into power and introduced a policy of segregation, better known as apartheid. Apartheid legislation became the focal point of black resistance in South Africa. One such law, the Group Areas Act of 1950, enforced residential apartheid. It entailed the removal of all non-whites from the white areas to specific allocated areas, usually some distance from town. These reserved areas became known as 'locations', where Coloureds, Blacks and Asians were settled separately. Duncan Village, Mdantsane, Breidbach, Schornville, Ilitha and Dimbaza are examples of such reserved areas. These non-white 'townships' today have become very popular tourist destinations, as examples of transitional, urban life.

The 1970s marked the start of the road to independence for Bantu areas. In the 1970's an ethnically demarcated territory was allocated to create the homeland Ciskei. Mdantsane, Zwelitsha, Dimbaza and Bisho fell into this territory. The Ciskei gained independence in 1981 with Bisho as its capital. It brought a considerable inflow of wealth through the establishment of industries, which took advantage of certain incentives, such as favourable tax and labour concessions, created by the nationalist government. Dimbaza was developed into an industrial zone, while Mdantane mainly served the purpose of a dormitory town. But despite the initial prosperity, the Ciskei remained a poor country. Independence and the authoritarian rule of President L Sebe caused the area to be politically unstable with regular outbursts of unrest. Of particular significance were the bus-boycotts of 1983 when clashes took place in Mdantsane with the loss of lives. The Ciskei ceased to exist in 1994, when it was reincorporated into the Republic following the first democratic election in South African history. Today Bisho forms a core suburb of King William's Town and is the seat of the provincial government of the Eastern Cape Province.

The Eastern Cape has produced a number of prominent leaders, including Robert Sobukwe (PAC), Oliver Tambo, Chris Hani, both former President Nelson Mandela and President Thabo Mbeki, and Black Consciousness leader Steve Biko. Buffalo City is within driving distance of the international attraction, the Nelson Mandela Museum Complex in Umtata and Qunu. It pays tribute to our former president's legacy. Within Buffalo City some of the struggle monuments include Walter Rubusana's grave in Braelyn (EL); Steve Biko Statue (EL); the Steve Biko Garden of Remembrance (KWT); the Bisho Massacre Site (Bisho); Bus-boycott Memorial (Mdantsane); and the Daily Dispatch building (EL). Under the editorship of Donald Woods, the Daily Dispatch became a mouthpiece for black consciousness in South Africa.

The Khoisan:

Although the Khoisan were probably the first inhabitants of this area, their lifestyle soon came under increased pressure as a result of the infiltration of other groups into the mostly vacant interior of South Africa. In the Eastern Cape the Khoisan first met Xhosa speaking tribes who infiltrated the area from the north in about 1500, and in the 18th century the white farmers from the Cape Colony, all in a race for prime grazing territory. Initial inter-race relations proved stable, mainly due to co-dependency on trade commodities such as cattle, ivory, feathers, dagga (marijuana), beads and copper goods. As the number of inhabitants increased, this symbiotic lifestyle was quickly replaced by an open display of intolerance, often leading to violent clashes. Contributing external factors such as the colonial persecution of the San and the Khoikhoi's lack of immunity against western disease (smallpox), further decreased the Khoisan numbers and removed them as contenders for frontier territory. Acknowledging this reality, many reverted to a nomadic lifestyle, only this time as displaced people to wander the land. By the middle of the 19th century, the San had almost disappeared entirely and the separate identity of the Khoikhoi had disappeared through admixture with other elements, both within the Colony and on the frontier.

There are about half-a-million people living in Buffalo City and the surrounding townships. The township of Mdantsane, 20km from the city, was established in 1962 as part of the government's racist apartheid policies. The objective of these townships or locations was to provide living space for cheap African labour on the outskirts of urban areas. It is now the largest town in the area, with a population of more than 250 000. It is the second-largest township in South Africa after Soweto.

Buffalo City boasts with a variety of tourist attractions and is rich in cultural and natural resources. The 68km of coastline includes 10 estuaries, conservancies, natural heritage sites, rocky shores and 14 sandy beaches. It is also South Africa's only river port, set on both the broad Buffalo and Nahoon Rivers and has the Gonubie River flowing around it. It is known as the gateway to the region's tourist corridors namely the Sunshine Coast and the Wild Coast.

The Port of East London:

The Port of East London is South Africa's only remaining river port and is situated at the mouth of the Buffalo River in the East Cape Province. It was originally established as a supply port to serve the military headquarters at King William's Town. The sheltered harbour at the mouth of the Buffalo River can be best seen from the double-decker Steve Biko bridge, which made history with its construction.

The port boasts the largest export grain elevator in South Africa, which has recently been converted to handle imports in addition to exports.

The original name was Port Rex. At Longitude 27º 55' E and Latitude 33º 1' S, the general cargo port has good rail and road connections with the hinterland (Free State and Gauteng) and north and south to KwaZulu-Natal and Port Elizabeth respectively.
 
After Sir Benjamin D'Urban had annexed the Province of Queen Adelaide in 1835, he sent an exploratory party to the mouth of the Buffalo River to determine the likelihood of establishing a port for the new province. Initial reports were favourable and so, in November 1836 the Knysna, a brig captained by John Findlay, was chartered to carry supplies for the troops stationed at Fort Peddie. The ship was met by a company of soldiers under the command of Captain Thomas Biddulph, the cargo was off-loaded, and the ship set sail before the end of December. Captain Biddulph later explained that Sir Andries Stockenstrom (Lieutenant Governor of the Eastern Districts) journeyed to the Buffalo Mouth to witness operations and was so impressed by what he saw that he named the place "Port Rex" after John Rex, the owner of the Knysna.

There is, however, a problem with this story. Stockenstrom was in the area because he had been instructed by the Colonial Office to return Queen Adelaide Province to the Chiefs. Indeed, only the previous day he had been to meet the Chiefs at the mission station known as King William's Town, and the documents of independence had just been signed. The ink was therefore scarcely dry before he journeyed to the mouth of the Buffalo River to inspect operations there. It is hardly likely that he would be so Janus-faced as to recognise the Chief's independence on the one day, while proclaiming the existence of a new colonial port the next.

The truth is more likely that the troops threw a party that night to honour the visit of the Lieutenant Governor (it is quite clear that the soldiers at the river camp held regular parties, for they had little else to occupy their time). It is probable that the decision to name the port was therefore no more than a party prank. Out came the paint and a nearby stone was duly daubed with the words "Port Rex", and the date. Three weeks later, the camp was struck and the title "Port Rex" would be used no more.

The area is well suited to community tourism, ecotourism and historical tourism, especially that relating to the anti-apartheid struggle as many of South Africa's past and present political leaders hail from the region. King Williams’ Town was home to Steve Biko, South Africa's father of Black Consciousness.
The Indian Ocean coastline is one of the main features of the Eastern area, the warm Mozambique current that flows past the coastline results in mild to warm water, good for swimming and fishing. The East London Museum probably has some of the most comprehensive natural history exhibits in South Africa, including the first coelacanth.

The coelacanth, Latimeria chalummae, is a primitive fish that has fins resembling stumpy legs. Until a specimen was caught off the Chalumna River near East London in 1938, the coelacanth had only been known from fossil remains and was believed to have been extinct for some 80 million years.

There is a long-standing tradition of beadwork in the area and many examples of this art can be seen along the route. Tourists interested in arts and crafts will have the opportunity to view fine examples of this ancient art.

Nearby routes

Baviaanskloof Route

The Baviaanskloof Route encompasses the broader Baviaanskloof area, which contains a newly proclaimed World Heritage Site, and offers a mix of sights and activities relating to nature and culture.

eScape Route

Garden Route Sea Kayaking Trails

These trails are situated along the famous Garden Route. The area offers warm-water sea paddling with its associated marine life, as well as many lakes and estuaries to explore.

Maloti Route

This route spans the borders between South Africa and the mountain kingdom of Lesotho, providing travellers with the opportunity to experience a diversity of cultures – Basotho, English, Xhosa and Afrikaans.

Mbodla Eco-Heritage Route

The Fish River (Nxuba) Valley is located adjacent to a thriving game-farming area of the Eastern Cape. The Mbodla Eco-heritage Route adds an original, Afro-centric, environmental, cultural and heritage dimension to the region’s offerings.

Mid-Karoo Route

This route is surrounded by dramatic mountains in the heart of the great Karoo and falls within the Nama Karoo Biome. This region is recognised for its herbal plant life, an exceptional variety of scarce birdlife and rock art from the San Bushmen. It is also one of the few, and best, places in the world where fossils are found.

Port St Johns Open Africa Route

En-route from Durban to Buffalo City, Port St Johns has numerous estuaries, bays and headlands. Small sandy bays and long stretches of open beach are found here, often near the mouth of large rivers like Umzimvubu River and Umngazana.

Comments and Reviews

Add a comment

Name: Email: Your comment: Please enter the characters below

See all comments from this route