Baviaanskloof Route

Situated between the Kouga and Baviaans Mountains in the Eastern Cape, the Baviaanskloof, meaning “Valley of Baboons”, is the third-largest nature conservation area in South Africa. The route encompasses the broader Baviaanskloof area, including a World Heritage Site, incorporates the towns of Hankey, Patensie, Willowmore, Steytlerville and the surrounding areas. Further south east, the towns of Jeffreys Bay, St Francis Bay, Cape St Francis, Oyster Bay and Humansdorp offer a coastal gateway to the Baviaanskloof. Linking these towns with the Baviaanskloof Mega-Reserve is the Langkloof Route, which includes the rural towns from Kareedouw and surrounds to Joubertina.

The Baviaanskloof Route is an eclectic mix of nature, culture, agriculture and communities. The route started out with five, but extended to seven diverse sub-routes (or regions), each with unique characteristics, and visitors are encouraged to see the Baviaanskloof as a destination where they can spend at least a week, exploring the offerings of each of the Baviaanskloof sub-routes.

Baviaanskloof Heritage Sub- Route:

This sub-route runs through the central section of the Baviaanskloof and stretches from Nuwekloof in the west to Komdomo in the east. This central section of the Baviaanskloof incorporates the World Heritage Site. High mountains, rugged passes, endless valleys, numerous river crossings, unspoiled mountainous terrain and tranquillity characterise the Baviaanskloof Heritage Route.      

The Coastal Gateway Sub-Route:

As its name indicates, the coastal gateway includes the coastal towns of Cape St Francis, Jeffreys Bay, St Francis Bay and Oyster Bay, and inland to Humansdorp. The diversity of this sub-route is in the different views and coastal experiences as well as small-town ambiences that each has to offer. In addition the varied culture and history of each of the towns adds to the interest of the area. The Coastal Gateway offers a “sun, sea and sand” experience before entering the beautiful Baviaanskloof Mega-Reserve, from the famous surf spots in Jeffreys Bay, to the quaint thatched architecture and canals of St Francis Bay, to the unspoilt beaches of Oyster Bay. The town of Humansdorp, situated inland, offers a central location to the coastal towns yet has a rural feel with the smell of the sea still lingering in the air.

Gamtoos Valley Sub-Route:

The Gamtoos valley includes the towns of Loerie, Hankey and Patensie, and stretches up to Komdomo.  The citrus farming of the region is evident around all the towns, and agri-tourism and farm escapes characterise this sub-route. The grave of Sarah Baartman is probably the most well-known icon of the area.

The Langkloof Sub-Route:

This sub-route is situated in the Langkloof fruit region between Port Elizabeth and George, on a section of the famous Route 62. The route offers a rural, country-like and historical experience, with something interesting around every corner. Langkloof (long kloof) includes breathtaking scenery, farm-life experiences, historical buildings and landmarks, and adventurous activities in a pleasant tranquil environment. The Apple Express train tracks mark the path of history through this area. The route stretches from the small town of Avontuur, past Haarlem, Misgund, Louterwater and Krakeel to the town of Joubertina, embraces Twee Riviere and finally Kareedouw, where it leads to the N2 and on to Port Elizabeth.

Steyterville Scenic Sub-Route:

The Steytlerville Scenic Sub-Route stretches from the edge of the Willowmore district in the west, to Wolwefontein in the east and south to the Grootrivier/Baviaanskloof Mountains.  Steytlerville is known as the town of the flags and has a colourful main street flanked by Karoo Victorian cottages. Steytlerville is the centre of the wool and mohair district in the south-eastern corner of the Great Karoo, and is known for its variety of semi-desert vegetation, most interestingly, cycads.  

Western Gateway Sub-Route:

The Western Gateway includes the Vaalwater and Hartebeesrivier region of the Baviaanskloof Route. The Western Gateway is the ideal stopover point for persons wishing to make an early start to explore the Baviaanskloof or it can be regarded as a destination in its own right. This region is known for its Rock Art, pristine nature, farm stays, hiking trails and tranquility.

Willomore Gateway Sub-Route:

The Willowmore Gateway includes the town of Willowmore and the surrounding Willowmore district. Willowmore is the northern gateway to the Baviaanskloof, but it is also a place where visitors can spend a few days exploring the town’s interesting Victorian and Edwardian architecture, and enjoying its village atmosphere and hospitality.

The common strengths of the Baviaanskloof Route and its sub-routes are that the area is malaria free; the climate is pleasant year round; it has clean water – visitors can swim in mountain pools, drink from streams; enjoy the sun on the beach or visit museums; and the region is rich in tradition – the local people have stories to share, traditional food for visitors to sample, and music that goes back generations. Donkey carts can still be seen traversing the dirt roads and steep passes throughout the Baviaanskloof Route. There is also the beautiful scenery and diverse flora of the region, but it is probably the people of the kloof that will encourage visitors to return – they are down to earth, make you feel at home and welcome and are extremely passionate about the area. The people are unique in who they are, and how they treat visitors. The route participants have established a common value system and vision for the Baviaanskloof Route. 

Value System:

• attract people to the area so that everyone benefits;
• preserve natural, cultural and historical beauty;
• work for the common good;
• preserve and showcase the area; and
• cross language barriers.

Vision:

• to create a unique, memorable experience offering products that are of a good standard and  value for money;
• to have roads upgraded, attract more tourism, to further develop accommodation facilities;
• to protect what there is – biodiversity, history and culture;
• to develop sensitive infrastructure;
• better living standards for everyone – encouraging job creation and business opportunities;
• more tourists in the kloof;
• more money in the kloof;
• to develop own identity; and
• share the benefits with everyone.

In line with the vision that everyone should benefit from development in the Baviaanskloof, a variety of community projects are ongoing at present. These aim to provide immediate income for unemployed people, and assist them in acquiring skills that will aid them in finding work in the private sector in the future. A number of community owned farms are also found in the Baviaanskloof, and the local community members and farmers are working together to make these farms successful. Many of the established guesthouses, farms and B&Bs on the route are involved with the community in one way or another – through training, transfer of skills, job creation, increased exposure and other socially uplifting activities.

The Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve gained international recognition when it was proclaimed a World Heritage Site in 2004. World Heritage Sites are special places on earth that are considered to be of outstanding universal significance to humanity. They are sites of exceptional beauty, contain the most important habitats, represent major stages of the earth’s history, or contain significant ongoing ecological processes. The integrity of such sites, which belong to all the people of the world, must be assured into the future.  The Baviaanskloof region is part of the Cape Floral Kingdom and is an area of outstanding natural beauty and biodiversity – seven of South Africa’s eight biomes are found in the broader Baviaanskloof area. The variety of wildlife in the area can be attributed to the diverse habitat; some of the larger mammal species found in the reserve are the Cape leopard, Cape buffalo, kudu, Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest, bushbuck, mountain rhebuck, eland and baboon. More than 1 000 different plant species are found in the Baviaanskloof.

These include species of the well known erica and protea families and also the genetically distinct and ancient cycads. Two surviving species of these ancient plants are found in the Baviaanskloof.Little evidence exists of the first inhabitants of the greater Baviaanskloof region, but people most probably occupied the area some 2-3 million years ago. The oldest evidence of people living in the greater Baviaanskloof region comes in the form of large stone tools which can be found throughout the region, dating back some one-million years. The world’s oldest remains of anatomically modern people (first Homo sapiens sapiens – people anatomically similar to us) were found on the fringes of the region and date back 120 000 years. They are believed to be the early ancestors of the KhoiSan people of southern Africa. The past 10 000 years however provide the most comprehensive information of the first indigenous people of the region – the San, Khoi and KhoiSan.

The region is blessed with numerous natural caves and rock shelters many of which were inhabited by these people over thousands of years. In these shelters are remarkably well-preserved archaeological deposits and against the walls are numerous paintings. In general the paintings are not well preserved and there are few large panels, probably due to the lack of large smooth areas to paint on.

The paintings appear to be in a similar 'style' throughout the region and the dominant colour is red and maroon-red with black, yellow and white present to a lesser degree. To the inexperienced eye the art may reflect depictions of hunting, running and fighting, but on closer examination one would notice that these scenes contain other aspects which illustrate the rituals, myths and beliefs of the painters. One such example is that human figures are often painted in strange positions with lines from their noses, and sometimes with animal features. As most of the painted images are believed to be related to the San shamanistic experience, these strange postures are interpreted as shamans entering a trance state during ritual dances. Women in 'dancing postures and/or clapping', which are reminiscent of these dances, are often associated with “trance figures”.For the painters, animals had far more value than just meat.

They believed that each animal had its own spiritual power, some more than others. For example, the eland in the Drakensberg played an important role in San rituals. For the greater Baviaanskloof region such an animal could have been the elephant, because it appears frequently on the shelter walls. Other images may include handprints, finger dots, geometric signs, 'nets' and many other images, each with its own particular symbolic meaning.

There are numerous signs and sites that are evidence of the early human inhabitants; to date over 200 heritage sites have been located in the area and it is believed that this only represents 10% of those in existence. Of all the many remarkable archaeological finds made over the years, the mummified remains of a San hunter-gatherer is by far the most unique. The body of a male of 30-40 years old was buried in the traditional flexed position some 2 000 years ago.

He was between 145 and 155 cm tall. A large flat stone with San paintings was placed on top of the body. Most of the body, between the pelvis and the skull was covered with a thick layer of leaves of a medicinal plant, called Boophane disticha ('gifbol', poisonous bulb or izchwe). This plant is still widely used by indigenous peoples throughout southern Africa. A thin rope made of the fibres of the plant Cyperus textilis was found around the feet and pelvis area. Presumably the body was tied up in the flex position before burial. The remains were removed and transported in toto to the Albany Museum to be studied with the permission of the KhoiSan communities in the Eastern Cape.

Due to the sensitive nature of the find, the remains will not be displayed and eventually the local communities will determine the final destiny of his remains.

Please note: South Africa has a unique and non-renewable archaeological heritage. Archaeological sites, including those with rock paintings, are protected by the National Heritage Resources Act (Act No 25 of 1999). No person without a permit issued by a relevant heritage authority may destroy, damage, or disturb any archaeological site or collect any material. Many of the rock art sites are on private farm land, and arrangements to visit them should be made with the farm owners. The Friends of the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area (FOBWA) have put together a request of dos and don’ts for visitors entering the Baviaanskloof.

Do:

• Have a true wilderness experience in one of the few remaining wilderness areas close to civilisation;
• Obtain permits to go off-road into the reserve ie, to visit the Poortjies picnic spot;
• Obtain permits to visit the camping sites as those staying there are entitled to privacy in their little piece of wilderness. Day visitors with day permits are not entitled to visit campsites;
• Protect very carefully your food and trash from very clever baboons as “a fed baboon is a dead baboon”. A baboon accustomed to getting food from the camp sites will eventually have to be shot;
• Bring in your own firewood. The “little” each camp site uses mounts up to several tons a year, negatively impacting the environment;
• Light fires in the fire-places only, as runaway fires have a severe impact on the ecology of an affected area;
• Enjoy the animals and be aware of their need for privacy;
• Carry out all your trash;
• Use only bio-degradable washing soaps for yourself and your dishes near water sources;
• Remember that all plants are protected and if found in your vehicle may result in confiscation of the vehicle;
• Enjoy but protect all historically significant sites as they may still be excavated by;
• historians in the future;
• Remember to drive only on formal access roads. Only baboons drive on dunes;
• Leave your site as you would like to find it;
• Remember to keep down the noise pollution;
• Protect the long drops (toilets) by being careful about what goes into them; and
• Take away happy memories and photographs but nothing else.

Don’t:

• Forget to have the best wilderness experience of your life

Distances and Roads:

The main road through the Baviaanskloof is a narrow, steep, gravel-surfaced, winding road through mountainous terrain. Streams, some dry, but most running, are crossed 86 times while driving the length of the kloof. In the rainy season, the rivers can become impassable – visitors should therefore check with local tourism offices before arriving to find    the roads inaccessible.

– from Willowmore (in the north west) through to Patensie (in the south east). These are average times and depend on stoppage and the driver. Use it as a guide to the minimum time required to travel through the Baviaanskloof.

The stretch of road between Cambria and Geelhoutbos can only be accessed with a 4x4 or other high-clearance vehicle. There are no refuelling points in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve – refuelling must be done before entering the reserve.

Information on the cultural heritage of the area kindly supplied by Dr Johan Binneman, Department of Archaeology, Albany Museum, Somerset Street, Grahamstown, 6139.

Useful Links

http://www.baviaans.co.za
http://www.baviaans.net
http://www.baviaans.com
http://www.ectb.com
htpp://www.wildernessfoundation.org.za/baviaanskloof
http://www.southafrica.net
http://www.foster.org.za

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