Alexandra Township of Rhythm Route

The name often used to describe historically black settlements designed by the apartheid government in South Africa is ekasi (township). The Alex Township of Rhythm – Open Africa route consists of products found in this vibey township. These include some of the best taverns and shebeens to be found in the townships, plus catering services, arts and crafts, entertainment groups and numerous street vendors selling a variety of goods – including a newly fashioned 'chicken dust' meal, chicken braaied (barbequed) at street corners and ready for consumption.

Route location:

The route is situated north of Johannesburg in Gauteng Province, South Africa. The region lies 26º south and 28º east on the global map. Alexandra is only five minutes from Sandton where the World Summit on Sustainable Development was held during 2002, a follow up to the Rio Summit held 10 years ago in Rio de Janeiro.

The history of Alexandra:

The Township of Alexandra was proclaimed in 1905 and was originally intended as a white residential area. But from 1912 onwards, 2 500 stands, each approximately 1 000m2 were offered for sale to black South Africans. Alexandra soon became popular, as it was one of the few areas where black South Africans could acquire property rights away from rural areas.

Before long Alexandra became known as 'Dark City' because of the absence of electricity and street lighting. The first local authority, The Alexandra Health Committee, was set up in 1916 with the aim of improving the living conditions of the local population, but it was ineffectual due to a lack of adequate funds. The Johannesburg City Council refused to take responsibility for Alex because it was outside city boundaries. Alexandra became known “nobody’s child”.

Poor infrastructure and overcrowding created squalid conditions. Chicago-style gangs ruled the Township, the most feared being The Spoilers and The Msomi gangs, whose reign of terror was finally broken by the intervention of the police in the late 1950s.

The Bus Fare Boycott of the Mid-1950's:

Between 1955 and 1957, bus fares were increased in Alexandra, as they were elsewhere. In response to the fare increase, Alexandra residents initiated a three-month long bus boycott. Hundreds of commuters walked some 30km every day to and from Johannesburg, chanting slogans such as 'asinamali' (we have no money) and 'azikwelwa' (we will not ride). This was one of the few ways in which the community could voice their grievances against the bus companies and the government of the day.

In 1958, in line with government policy, Alexandra was taken over by the central government and placed under the West Rand Administration Board (WRAB) which decided to transform Alexandra into a hostel township. Large-scale removals from Alexandra to various areas, particularly Diepkloof and Diepmeadow in Soweto, soon followed. By 1973, the population of Alexandra had decreased to 40 000 from a peak of around 75 000 in the mid-1940's.

Concerted protests from residents forced the government to reverse its settlement plan and a new plan to totally redevelop Alexandra as a so-called 'Model-Township' was proposed, but never implemented. Housing and infrastructure was scheduled for improvement and industries developed around Alexandra to provide employment. Residents opposed this plan, suspecting that rental and service increases would inevitably follow.

Political conflict erupted in 1984 in various townships in present-day Gauteng, following uprisings in the Vaal Triangle. In April 1986, tensions came to a head in Alexandra when vigilantes attacked activists, resulting in the 'Six-Day War'. Alexandra residents organised themselves into democratically elected street and block committees and set up alternative structures to take over the running of the Township. A large security force contingent was moved into Alexandra in June 1986, following the declaration of a State of Emergency, and civic activists were detained. Again the former government proposed an upgrading project to win public support but this too was never implemented.

After 1994 the new government launched some redevelopment projects to provide additional housing and to address infrastructural weaknesses that Alexandra had inherited. The Alexandra Renewal Project is one such initiative, estimated to cost R1.3-billion over a seven-year period. The Alexandra Renewal Project is a joint initiative that involves many stakeholders, including national, provincial and local government, NGOs, the Alexandra community, the private sector and community based organisations. The project is also fully supported by the Gauteng Tourism Authority, which is engaged in several projects in Alexandra.

This renewal project heralds a new dawn for South African townships, offering hope for a better life for the people of South Africa and in particular the Alexandra community, who will benefit enormously from this initiative. For more information on the Alexandra Renewal Project, please log on to: http://www.alexandra.co.za

'Alexandra' – A poem by Mongane Serote:

"My beginning is knotted to you,
Just like you knot my destiny.
You throb in my inside silences
You are silent in my heartbeat
That’s loud to me.
Alexandra often I’ve cried."

The icons of Alexandra:

During the 91 years of its history, Alexandra has been home to many well-known South African figures, including sports personalities, artists and those who, at some stage in their lives, held public office.

Public figures include the former State President, Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, and the first lady Zanele Mbeki. The late Joe Modise, who was the Minister of Defence from 1994 to 1999, and the late Alfred Nzo, who was the Minister of Foreign Affairs during the same period.

Other icons include musicians Huge Masekela, Zakes Nkosi, Simon Mahlathini Nkabinde, Caiphus Semenya, The Dark City Sisters and many others who once called Alexandra their home. Sports personalities include well-known boxers such as Bra Jason Radebe, Theo 'Black Panther' Mthembu and the soccer legend, Isaac Chirwa.

Places to see and visit:

• The Mandela Yard Precinct – a narrow alleyway between tightly packed houses leads to the room where former president Nelson Mandela once lived in the 1940s when he was a young lawyer;
• Roman Catholic Church Precinct – the old St Hubert’s Church is a beautiful, serene building amongst a lively district filled with shops and beer taverns;
• Kings Precinct – which has an early cinema that captures the style of the 1950s and forms the centre of an entertainment district, which brings Alex together at night;
• Nobuhle hostel – a giant, haunting hostel designed by the apartheid authorities to house migrant workers;
• Skills-development projects have been initiated to empower the Alex community on these premises;
• The Tsutsumani Village – a new housing settlement opened in 1999 during the All-Africa Games;
• The hostel areas where male and female hostels are located;
• The cemetery precinct – where political activists such as Moses Kotane, Thoko Mngoma and Vincent Tshabalala are buried; and
• River Park – view new developments, including the ongoing Alexandra Renewal Project aimed at giving Alexandra Township a facelift for the betterment of the community.

Guided tours to Alexandra:

Guided Tours are Led From the Hotels of Sandton and Rosebank.

• Introduction to Alex tour 09:00–12:00 / 14:00–17:00;
• Tavern lunch tour 12:00–15:00; or
• Alex by night 18:30–21:00.

Township Etiquette – Do's and Don’ts:

• Do treat all residents with respect and dignity;
• Don’t ask too many probing questions which might offend people;
• Do ask for permission before taking photographs;
• Don’t go into the townships without an accredited tour guide;
• Don’t leave the tour group and wander around on your own;
• Don’t wear too many jewellery items and carry your camera in a shoulder bag;
• Don’t carry large sums of money with you;
• Do ask your tour guide to clarify any questions you might have; and
• Don’t hand out money – rather make a donation to a charity where your money will be put to good use.

Otherwise, do enjoy yourself and have fun with the locals.

Useful Links

http://www.openafrica.com
http://www.alexandra.co.za
http://www.gauteng.net/attracts/alex
http://www.southafrica.net

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