With the longest coastline in Africa, it’s not surprising that Mozambique is famed for its gorgeous beaches, water sports and pristine offshore islands, but the absence of mass tourism, its affordability, plus the ultra-friendly locals are also a draw for tourists.
After years of armed conflicts, famine and floods, this lovely country is luring travellers looking for a previously little-known destination. It seems hard to believe that Mozambique some 30 years ago attracted more tourists than South Africa and Rhodesia (as Zimbabwe was formerly called) combined, but it now looks set fair to achieve the same kind of numbers.
Portuguese is the official language, so arm yourself with a couple of catch-all phrases: “Bom dia, como está” (Good morning, how are you?) will get you a long way with the smiling locals. A country where it’s still safe to camp on the beaches, Mozambique offers all kinds of accommodation, from the colonially splendid grand old lady of Maputo, the Polana Hotel, to straw huts under palm trees, friendly B&Bs, and plenty of self-catering villas, houses and bungalows. So whether you fancy a flimsy beach shack, a backpacker hangout, a pensão room, an exclusive island hideaway or a magnificent hotel suite, there’s something for every taste and pocket.
The south coast is blessed with an exceptionally beautiful coastline, and as it is only a day’s drive from Johannesburg, transport hub of Southern Africa, this is where most visitors tend to go. There are good roads, some of the best seafood in the world (Mozambique prawns are the tops), and all kinds of beach resorts.
The north is less developed but equally beautiful, although you need time, patience and a 4x4 to get there. Snorkelling, diving, game fishing or just messing about in a boat is the order of the day, or for the true hedonist, a palm-fringed beach, a place in the sun, a cool cocktail and a plate of oysters will hit the spot. This is one country in the world where you can find truly deserted beaches – some miles long.
If you want to see game, then there are two game parks – Limpopo National Park, which joins Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park and South Africa’s Kruger National Park to form the Transfrontier Park, and Gorongosa National Park, now being restocked and imaginatively and efficiently run in a joint effort by the Mozambique government and the USA Carr Foundation.
Maputo, the capital, is one of the safest and most fascinating of all African cities, where buildings of faded colonial grandeur rub shoulders with shanties, hideous Communist 1950s apartment blocks, and a stunning railway station (claimed to be the most attractive in sub-Saharan Africa) designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame. Not only is it a great piece of architecture, but some of the coolest jazz this side of the equator is played there at weekends in the historic railway bar.
For the truly intrepid traveller and explorer, go north and visit the historic former Portuguese capital on Ilha da Moçambique and the ancient island town of Ibo Island, but getting there takes time, patience and hours of travelling over bad roads with few or no facilities en route.
Water babies will be in their element in Mozambique. Water activities rule and you’ll find some of the best in the world.
There’s world-class diving, ocean fly-fishing, snorkelling, game fishing – your lodge will get you sorted no matter which activity you choose. Snorkel on the legendary Two Mile Reef as multi-coloured, Disney-like fish dart and flash around you. Pit your fishing skills against a marlin off Santa Maria/Inhaca and Bazaruto Archipelago. Dive with manta rays and whale sharks, and keep an eye out for the dugong, that extraordinary sea creature that gave rise to the mermaid legend.
To take to the waves, choose between a motorised dhow, or the wind-driven option, or hitch a ride with a passing fisherman, but be sure to fix the price before you set out. In some places you can swim with dolphins, track turtles, go hiking or watch birds. If you find yourself on Ilha de Benguerra in the idyllic Bazaruto Archipelago, 700km (389mi) from Maputo, take a boat ride to remote Pansy Island, where pansy shells decorate the sands like stone flowers.
If you’re into soul stuff, you can choose an African yoga retreat, or go drumming or dancing.
In Maputo, it’s worth checking out the railway station, the Iron House (also Eiffel’s work, although until the advent of aircon it was uninhabitable), the Botanic Gardens, the Art Deco cathedral, the Freedom Statues, the old Portuguese Fort with its original cannons, and the sculptures in the city centre created out of old AK-47 rifles. The bustling fish market is another must, as are the curio and woodcarving stalls behind it.
Although driving yourself in a 4x4 is an attractive option, it’s not always the best one. Many of the roads further north are potholed and dangerous, made more so by the transitos (traffic police) who will pull you over willy-nilly and expect a bribe. In the north, there are still a few undetected landmines – a grim reminder of the bloody civil war of the 1970s and 1980s. If you can, choose air travel, especially in the north.
The weather can get very hot, wet and humid between October and April: the best time weatherwise is the cooler months between April and September when it’s comfortable to travel and there’s no rain.
Always take malaria medication: ask your doctor or travel clinic about the latest prophylactics before you leave home. If at any time up to three months after you return home you develop flu-like symptoms, fever, a bad headache and/or joint pains, seek medical advice immediately and tell your doctor that you have been in a malaria zone.
Useful websites:
www.getawaytoafrica.com
www.go2africa.com/mozambique
Most people are adept at accumulating the wisdom of knowledge. Knowledge, they say, is power, but Africa’s wisdom is in what people do not know. It is the wisdom handed down through millions of years of survival, which translates into instinct and intuition.
– Noel de Villiers, Open Africa
Tugela Falls is the world’s second-highest waterfall. The total drop in five free-leaping falls is 947m (3110ft).
Comments and Reviews
Thank you for your comment on Mozambique Barry. This is a sad truth, not everyone understands the severity of the impact of quad bikes on the ecology. Let us hope control is improved in the near future.
Admin on 9th of February, 2009 at 11:05.
I have visited Mozambique many times and not once have Ibeen disapointed inthe placees we have stayed. Most places to the north are accessable with a normal LDV with diff lock. At present other than accommodation being expensive, one can still have a relatively cheap holiday. On negative note, there are some South Africans who are bent on destroying the ecology by totaly ignoring the ban on beach driving. The quads especialy are destroying every that gets in their way. The Mozambique authorities should take severe action against these HOOLIGANS.
Barry Liversage on 27th of January, 2009 at 08:23.
Im a guy with working at banhine national Park in the northen part of gaza province where you can easly use the root to go to the cost passing true limpopo park at pafuri gate and entering at harriane post on the way to maxaila passing and observing a full wildlife species and uncomon in othrer areas. Eg. ostrish and you are well come to use this route
kassamo on 23rd of December, 2008 at 11:31.
Great website. Have paddled the Nova Mambone mangroves quite often. Please add www.mozguide.com to your list of useful websites. Thanks Mike Slater
Mike Slater on 12th of November, 2008 at 11:49.
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